Author: Geo
Tools and materials needed:
Socket set
Phillips screwdriver
Flat screwdriver (large)
Hammer and a small piece of 2X4 (if needed, see text)
Tube of Lithium Grease
Body Calk™ (Caulk)
1-Start by removing the roof, lowering the back window, remove seats (4 bolts), rear center console (5 screws (not necessary to remove, just makes more room to work with)), rear storage boxes (6 screws), upper rear trim panel (pull off by starting at the top), upper side trim panels (4 screws then pull out & off) and lower trim panels (4 screws then pull out & off). I won't go into extreme detail on removing them as it's pretty much self explanatory.
2-Loosen the two mounting bolts only (the two in the center at the bottom) on the rear window metal panel then remove the 10 others holding the panel in.
3-Carefully pry the panel at the edges so you don't deform the panel as your removing it (starting at the top edge and gently working your way down each side seems to work best, just be sure to take your time on doing this part).
4-Carefully lower/lay the panel down to the floor so you can then disconnect the wiring by unplugging it. You can now remove the panel from the car setting it on the floor outside the car or on saw horses. If you bend the panel some when removing it, it can be either hammered or bent back in shape by hand depending on how bad it's bent (it has to be flat to seal tight up against the back bulkhead to prevent further leaks).
5-Now you will be able to see the lower drain hose tubes, you can now start the cleaning process, (I used a vacuum cleaner hose to start with then used a air compressor to finish cleaning them with (if you use something to poke through it please be careful as it has two sharp 90 degree bends in it and you don't want to make any holes in the tubes as that would let water leak into the cabin area)).
From the pictures below you can see the plugged drain port.
6-Now with the cleaning finished you will need to remove the old sealant from the panel and put a new bead of sealant in the small lip area. Body strip calk works best as it won't shrink or crack as if you are using silicone caulking would when it get hot (body strip caulk can be purchased at a car paint shop or maybe from a body shop).
7-At this time it would also be good to lube the tracks for the window sliding surfaces with white lithium grease. With this done it is now time to place the window assembly back in the car and plug the wiring connector back together.
8-Position the panel on the two bottom center bolts into two slotted holes on the panel and lay it up against the rear body panel and start putting in the 10 remaining bolts. Tighten all the bolts down snugly and check to make sure that the window can moves up and down properly.
9-If not check that you plugged in the wiring or that the panel in not bent or binding at some point. If everything works ok at this time you can replace all the remaining panels and the center console removed along with putting the seats back in, in the reverse order they were taken out.
10-You should be done now with no more water sloshing around in there. Enjoy.